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PRINCESSE NEROLI d'ORIENT - Eau de Parfum 12%
Regular price From CHF 17.00Regular priceUnit price / perSale price From CHF 17.00
Collection: FRAGRANTICA III - 'Esprits de Parfum' à la française [alcohol based natural perfume creation]
| Items in this collection contain alcohol and therefore are currently only available (and visible) for customers in Switzerland due to postal regulations. |
Créations Maison en Haute Parfumerie Naturelle
House Creations - Natural Luxury Perfumery
ESPRITS de PARFUM

The history of perfume making is and has always been in constant transformation everywhere humans have made of scents a craft and an art (that is mostly everywhere at all times).
The current form of alcohol based industrial synthetic based perfumes that pollute our world does too and the so called "luxury" perfumes by marketing illusionists likewise.
Before industrial interests started to push for synthetics to be dominant ant the turn of the XIXthe century, à la grande Belle Epoque, perfumes were often created under the form of "Extraits / Extracts" or
Esprits de Parfum
Those were perfumes that still had a scentient soul: made entirely with naturals, highly concentrated :25 to 40%. usually. It was simply using the newly widely available pure alcohol for perfumery (96 to 98 degrees). Alcohol helps perfumes open and diffuse in a very special way, it is certainly an interesting tool for perfumers, not only because it allows tincturing and extractions. It allows also multiples uses, which is the past went much beyond perfumery.
Here I go back to the original spirits and methods used until La belle époque. Perfumes were composed just like attars, by craftily blending different essence to create a 100% perfume concentré, which is basically what an attar /ittar* is, still a very important form of perfume in the Middle East and Asia.
After curing the perfume concentré was diluted into alcohol, further cured and bottled- This is the general method used here. Such perfumes combine some of the performative qualities of pure blends that industrial perfumes won't offer, and it will give this special feeling that alcohol based perfumes provide.
Each perfume is patiently designed, often over months of development, sometimes much more (as each stage needs to harmonize and be cured before the next step), followed by substantial curing times.. All ingredients are high-end pure natural essences and aromatics, detailed on each specific perfume.
An Esprit de Parfum offers presence, tenacity, volume. A little goes very far. We also offer different concentrations, as Esprits de parfum, can be too much for some. We happily customize concentraion / potency for clients: just contact us.
* If you are interested in pure perfumes = attars / ittars, you can perhaps enjoy exploring our own productions: both Traditional Attars and Scentient Nature's Creations. .
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from 25 reviewsRose des Vents is a beautiful exploration of the relationship between rose and ambergris. What makes this composition particularly memorable to me is not its complexity in terms of constant transformation, but rather the remarkable harmony between two materials expressing very different yet deeply connected facets.
The opening is distinctly floral, led by a rose that feels wonderfully alive. Rather than the intensely sweet, jammy character sometimes found in contemporary rose compositions, this one retains a freshness that I particularly appreciate.
It brings to mind a rosebud in the early morning, just beginning to unfold as the first sunlight gently warms its petals. There is sweetness, certainly, but also something greener and more vegetal: an impression of the calyx, the sepals and the fresh living structure supporting the flower.
That subtle green dimension is, to my nose, the most fascinating aspect of the composition.
It creates a natural bridge between the soft sensuality of the rose and the saline, mineral, almost crystalline character of the ambergris. The vegetal freshness of the flower seems to meet the luminous freshness of the sea, allowing both materials to communicate without either losing its identity.
The ambergris introduces a beautiful marine radiance, gently animalic and intimate, with an invigorating mineral quality that contrasts elegantly with the softness of the rose.
The development feels relatively linear on my skin, yet never monotonous. Rather than unfolding through dramatic changes, the composition maintains an intimate dialogue between its two principal characters. It is almost like watching two accomplished dancers who know each other so well that every movement feels instinctive.
There is a remarkable sense of complicity here.
I repeatedly found myself returning to my wrist, not necessarily to discover something new, but simply to experience that relationship once again. The contrast between floral sensuality and mineral luminosity creates an almost hypnotic attraction.
Having experienced several rose materials, including highly concentrated Rose de Mai absolutes from Grasse, I particularly appreciate compositions that preserve something of the entire living flower rather than focusing exclusively on the sweetness of its petals.
Rose des Vents offers precisely that impression to my nose, and it is what makes the encounter with ambergris so successful.
A beautifully balanced, sensual and quietly captivating creation. A reminder that olfactory richness does not necessarily require an extensive palette of ingredients, but can emerge from the exceptional understanding of how two materials interact.
A wonderful experience, and one I find myself returning to with genuine pleasure. Merci Nicolas!
Another beautiful creation from Nicolas, with excellent longevity on my skin.
The opening, to my nose, is strikingly mineral, translucent and luminous, like a crystal illuminated by warm sunlight, revealing delicate blue, saline reflections.
It immediately transports me to the small changarritos along the Mexican coast, where freshly caught seafood is prepared by the beach. I picture a peaceful, sunny afternoon: sun-warmed shells, briny sea air and that distinctive mineral freshness mingling with freshly squeezed lime, salt and peppers. A wonderfully vivid and comforting sensory memory.
After one to two hours, the mineral brightness gradually softens, giving way to a richer, creamier texture that I associate with the Sri Lankan sandalwood. The spices become smoother and more integrated, while the saline freshness remains subtly present.
In the dry-down, I perceive a delicate iodine-like marine character, which I associate with the white ambergris, accompanied by gentle spices and a beautiful whisper of rose.
What I particularly enjoy is the transition from radiant, crystalline freshness to a softer, silkier and more intimate warmth. Beautifully balanced, deeply evocative and remarkably persistent on my skin!
Chapeau!
To my nose, it feels colourful, energetic and intensely sensual, with a warm, subtly salty, skin-like character. Across several wearings, it brought me back to the huapango dance gatherings in Mexico: music, vivid colours, dancers in motion, and the warmth of people mingling with the fragrant atmosphere of the celebrations. It evoked an entire scene rather than a single remembered scent.
On my skin, its development is relatively linear: individual facets gradually soften while the composition retains its identity. Nevertheless, the emotional connection has been remarkable. A deeply personal discovery, and a creation I am genuinely grateful to Nicolas for sharing. Gracias!
Black Diamond is undoubtedly one of the most captivating oud oils I have experienced. Its unusual character took me two separate applications to fully appreciate, and the experience was genuinely memorable.
The opening (0–1 hour), to my nose, evokes gently roasted grains, malted barley husks and a delicate, almost yeasty fermentation. As someone who deeply enjoys traditional single malt whisky production and craft brewing, I found this association fascinating.
It even reminded me of a small mill near my home, where the aromas of old grains, their husks and slowly macerating cereals create a wonderfully rich atmosphere. An unexpected olfactory memory to encounter in a Cambodian oud!
After approximately one hour, the toasted cereal character gradually softens as delicate fruity nuances begin to emerge. They bring a subtle sweetness that gently embraces the remaining roasted, malty facets without ever turning the oil into a sweet fragrance.
Deeper woody and incense-like notes gradually become more prominent, while that distinctive cereal character remains beautifully woven into the background.
In the dry-down, Black Diamond becomes profoundly woody, dark and richly ambered, with an almost mysterious depth. Its remarkable longevity and warm, lingering presence on my skin make this final phase particularly enjoyable.
For me, this is an intensely contemplative oil. It invites me to sit quietly, let my body settle and allow my mind to wander.
More than a fragrance, it feels like a journey in itself.
An exceptional olfactory experience, deeply personal and unquestionably one of my favourite discoveries.
As someone who regularly burns frankincense, I found Magic Mushaad a very enjoyable way to rediscover a familiar material. What interested me most was its transformation on the skin, moving from a striking first impression towards something much quieter and more intimate.
The opening has a distinctive varnish-like facet, reminiscent of the resinous sharpness of turpentine. There is something quite raw and vivid about it, an unexpected introduction that immediately caught my attention.
With time and the warmth of my skin, that sharper edge gradually softens. A more settled incense character emerges, slightly earthy and increasingly close to the skin. This was the part I enjoyed most: following that transition and recognising an atmosphere I know so well genuinely brought a smile to my face.
It reminded me of the quiet moments I take for myself with good luban or hojari. More specifically, that later stage of heating, when the bright citrus and piercing mineral facets have eased and the resin settles into a warmer, calmer presence. Finding something of that familiar atmosphere on my skin, at such an intimate scale, was particularly pleasing.
Personally, this is not a material I would choose to wear as a standalone fragrance. My interest lies more in its possibilities within a composition or as an ambient scent: I can readily imagine its character bringing depth and texture to a woody or incense accord. A distinctive material and a very pleasant rediscovery, especially for someone who enjoys spending time with natural resins and following their evolution.
Explosive candied lemon, hints of orange peel, extremely fresh and bright, sweet as a piece of candy, then grassy notes infused with honey, somewhat reminiscent of elemi resin and the full spectrum of sweet grasses. This isn’t your run-of-the-mill lemongrass—this is the king of lemongrass.
A dark green-brown colour, deep, dark vetiver, herbal notes, undergrowth, marsh, dark roots, slightly medicinal, notes of geranium, a hint of mint, a hint of iris, oolong tea. Uncommon notes in perfumery. Or simply to be enjoyed pure. Very lovely.
The following review reflects my personal olfactory impressions, gathered over three separate wearing sessions to explore the oil’s character, nuances, and evolution on my skin over time.
A fascinating olfactory journey that reveals a far more nuanced expression of Cambodian oud than the typically sweet, fruit-forward profiles often associated with this terroir.
The opening is beautifully warm and fruity, somewhere between a slightly underripe apricot and passion fruit, with a lively acidity balanced by a gentle, restrained sweetness. There is also an intriguing hint of black olive, bringing a subtle bitterness, alongside a dry, fibrous, almost woody-earthy quality reminiscent of sun-warmed bark and coconut husk.
The image that immediately comes to mind is an orchard at sunset, just as the sun disappears below the horizon and the fruits, trees, and soil begin releasing the warmth accumulated throughout the day. Golden, orange-tinted, gently sweet, yet wonderfully fresh and natural.
Around the 30-minute mark, the fruitiness remains, but the orchard floor begins to take centre stage. The woody character grows denser, revealing dry wood shavings, fibrous vegetation, and a faint earthy warmth. A barely perceptible animalic, fur-like nuance emerges, accompanied by the first delicate whispers of incense. Throughout this transition, the fruity, slightly unctuous character remains beautifully intertwined with the wood.
After approximately one hour, the fruitiness evolves into something distinctly more confit: a luscious marmalade made from partially ripe fruits, with their skins left on. Sweet, certainly, but never excessively so. A persistent, vibrant acidity and a delicate bitterness prevent the composition from becoming overly gourmand.
Then comes a particularly beautiful balsamic development, reminding me of a traditionally aged Aceto Balsamico di Modena: rich, grape-like, resinous, velvety and wonderfully complex, with acidity seamlessly integrated into a deep, rounded sweetness. All of this is accompanied by a fine, soft, subtly sweet incense note.
The lingering impression on my skin is one of fresh, velvety fruitiness delicately intertwined with a light, elegant incense.
What makes Calambac Confit particularly compelling to my nose is how confidently it moves beyond the more conventional Cambodian oud profiles, which can sometimes lean heavily on sweetness and relatively straightforward fruity accords.
Here, sweetness is never the main character. Instead, it supports a much more interesting interplay of tart fruit, vegetal dryness, wood, fleeting animalic nuances, balsamic depth and delicate incense. Each stage brings a different dimension without losing the composition's underlying identity.
A beautifully crafted, unconventional expression of Cambodian oud that demonstrates just how much complexity and character this terroir can offer beyond its more accessible, sweet-driven interpretations. A genuinely rewarding olfactory experience.
Muchas gracias Nicolas!
I am a sandalwood lover, and this oil is really something special. I enoy both classical Indian oils and of oils from different terroirs. This one is really interesting because it feels like both in the same bottle : round, creamy, and luminous like the a classic Mysore but with added surprises : the yuzu note is gourmand and delicious and the other terroir notes (quite discrete) add an interesting structure. The longevity is great: it remains potent for hours and hours and is still noticeable the next day. High quality treat !
It is hard to find good Hindi ouds these days and this malaccensis oil is really to my liking : a clean soul warming animal presence in the opening with rich and complex accompanying notes, and then a journey of transformation that kept my nose glued to my wrist over hours and hours.
One can really feel a huge difference compared to generic cultivated products found everywhere these days. Very happy to have found your shop. Warmly recommended !!
Thanks also for the time taken to answer my questions with such depth. Really appreciated.
Sanctiris – to me – is like a way home. It helps me focus and align myself. It also calms and clears my mind.
It helped me with my third eye chakra, which – since I started using it – feels way less trapped. There’s way more ease now.
It supported me to not lose trust towards my skills and goals. It’s like remembering that I’m the captain of this ship, that crosses storms and floods.
I often wear it on my wrists, so that – whenever I might need it – I am able to remember that I’m home.
Extraordinary, as usual!
This is quite a smell, and texture! Citrus with a bitter undercurrent, light and yet unctuous. Will come back for more. Only reservation: the scent disappears quickly on my skin, but it none the less gives me a lift that is great to start the day with.
this attar is raw and wild and makes me feel ecstatic every time I smell it. Similar to the Rosebush it seems to be a vessel transporting me to another dimension, to a blissful place far away I must have been lifetimes ago and it feels so good to be there. As it develops throughout the day, wonderful corners of this place bring bliss to my world in form of whiffs of florals, spices and dark leathery tones . The oud is wonderfully animalic (not overpowering to me) and gives this scent a raw and mysterious essence. The beauty is that it blends in with my skin in a way that i become the scent and feel empowered through the day & night...
This scent is everything.. just the first sniff of it transports me to another dimension, somewhere ancient and magical. The soft fresh opening of the rose makes me feel serene and deeply happy, my heart flutters with joy while the light animalic scent of the oud is grounding, deep earthy and sensual. I can't stop smelling my wrists when i wear it, I'd say is the perfect marriage of the majestic rose & oud. I actually wore it on my wedding day myself and the scent embodied both the all encompassing love, connection and wildness i felt that day.
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